Günther Unlustig 🍄

Peter Lustig’s unlustiger verschollener Sohn mit weirden Interessen und Gadsen.

🇩🇪 DE/EN 🇬🇧

<Explaination for anyone not knowing obscure German media>

Peter Lustig used to be the moderator in an old German kids science and nature series called “Löwenzahn” (Dandelion) who shaped our generation.
He also shaped my childhood, and I want to honour him.

My real name also isn’t “Günther”, it’s just a reference to “Olaf, Olaf, Olaf, Günther” from Spongebob: The Movie, because I wanted it to sound like a real name and it makes conversations easier.

  • 3 Posts
  • 11 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: May 18th, 2024

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  • I can recommend you Debian, since it’s the “default” for many servers and has a lot of documentation and an extremely big userbase.

    For web interfaces, I can recommend you, as you already mentioned, CasaOS and Cockpit.

    I used CasaOS in the beginning and liked it, but nowadays, I mostly use Cockpit, where I have the feeling that it integrates the host system more, and allows me to do most of my maintenance (updating, etc.) quite easily.

    CasaOS is more aesthetic imo, and allows you to install docker containers graphically, which is better for beginners.
    I personally do my docker stuff mostly via CLI (docker compose file) nowadays, because I find it more straightforward, but the configuration CasaOS offers is easier to understand and has nice defaults


  • I replied to @muntedcrocodile@lemm.ee and understood the question like “Is distrobox as secure as QubesOS?”, which I replied with “No”.

    I’d say Fedora Atomic is definitely a bit more secure than other distros (e.g. Ubuntu, regular Fedora, etc.) for reasons you mentioned, but if you are a user that thinks that only Qubes offers the security you need, than there’s no alternative.

    I can recommend you Secureblue tho as a good middle ground.
    It’s Fedora Atomic, but hardened, a bit like GrapheneOS. Still viable for comfortable everyday use, but much more secure.








  • Instead of using a caliper, like the others have said, you can measure the distance with your printer if you don’t have such a tool.

    Just go into the “Move axis”-mode, and move your nozzle from the home position to the top layer.

    Let’s say your coordinates are now X0, Y0 and Z49,3.

    You can then move the object in your slicer by just changing your Z axis to -49,3.

    Just make sure you:

    1. Get a good first layer, without getting an elephant’s foot.
    2. Don’t use too much glue. A good choice is acrylic glue, but it will alter the surface if it droops out or is too far outside.
    3. Don’t mechanically stress the object too much. It won’t be as strong as before.

  • I have a Logitech MX Master 3s and can really recommend it to you.

    It’s on the expensive side, sure, but for something I use daily it’s worth it for me. It is a really great device!

    It doesn’t have a (easily) replaceable battery tho. I didn’t take a look at how to replace it, but I think it might be as hard, or easier, than with an electric toothbrush or something, if that’s really important to you.

    I can’t even remember when I charged that thing the last time, and I think that’s a good sign for the power consumption. So, even if the battery looses 50% of its capacity over 5-10 years, it will still last for weeks and charge in a very short time, and by that time, it will look so used and disgusting, that you might consider buying a new mouse.

    You can also use it while charging (looking at you, Apple mouse!), and it has an USB-C port that also acts not only for power, but also as signal line if you want.

    It has a Bluetooth-only mode (for connecting multiple PCs), a wireless dongle, and as said a wired connection.