gonzo-rand19

You’re welcome. Hopefully you don’t have to deal with security deposits any time soon. :3

For anyone interested in weird retro movies, the photo is from Valley of the Dolls, which I recommend.

Security deposits are a type of refundable fee where a tenant pays a specific amount (often many hundreds of dollars) to a landlord to “ensure” that they don’t damage a residence while living there. If the residence is damaged, the landlord keeps the deposit. The term is derived from contract law where “security” just means a way to make sure that a party to a contract meets their contractual obligations.

There are many instances where a landlord illegally keeps the deposit over damage that was either already existing or minimal (also referred to as “wear and tear” damage, which is expected when you live somewhere long-term), so OP is calling for the courts to determine the extent of damage to prevent landlords from taking advantage of tenants.

In some jurisdictions (like the one I live in), security deposits and most other related deposits such as key deposits (i.e., a refundable fee paid to obtain a key to the residence) are completely illegal in order to eliminate the possibility entirely.

So I think that there may be a BIOS misconfiguration here somewhere. Try looking at the answers here, maybe one of them will help: https://askubuntu.com/questions/708247/cant-boot-into-ubuntu-in-windows-10-ubuntu-dual-boot

You replied to the wrong person.

ACPI errors shouldn’t be an issue, it’s somewhat common to see them. Are you still able to boot from live USB? Are your Linux and Windows installations on the same drive? Sometimes Windows can mess with the boot settings of other OSes and even break a GRUB install.

The picture you posted doesn’t show an error, that’s a screen to select your boot drive. Are you saying you don’t know how to select a boot drive or that when you do select the boot drive, nothing happens? You’re not giving us any information to help you with.

…Looking at my specs, do you really believe that I paid it recently? This was many years ago.

For me, I haven’t bought a new graphics card in a long time. I have a RX 580 that I bought used for $200 CAD. My next upgrade will be my motherboard since I’m still using a 1150 socket and I’m stuck using DDR3 RAM and an outdated CPU (Intel i5-4460).

I can still play newish games at low settings and that’s fine for me right now. I’m not buying a GPU at current retail price, fuck that. It’s crazy that the best time to build a PC was 2015.

Why should I know that? It doesn’t seem helpful for everyday life whatsoever except maybe as trivia.

The reality here is that if you really have “a love of creampies” and a “fear of having kids” then vasectomy is really going to be your best option. Wasting time on condoms is a matter of preference rather than frugality when you’re currently working, especially when that workplace offers health benefits, precisely due to the answers to the questions I posed.

Edit: Vasectomy is also something that you can have done proactively, unlike abortion, which must be performed once a pregnancy actually exists and within a certain number of weeks depending on jurisdiction. If you already have the number of kids you want, it makes a lot of sense.

What does an abortion cost when you pay cash? What’s the average child support payment? How much do you have in savings to put towards a large medical expense for a child (such as a birth or severe injury)?

Just some thought-provoking questions to put the cost in perspective.

More power to you, as long as you’re cool with the inherent damage to your health.

I have to correct you (sorry) when you say “dual-phase” because homes in Canada (my country) and the US don’t have dual-phase electricity and haven’t for many, many decades. What you are talking about is called “split-phase” and is actually just a single phase that’s been split using a neutral/return conductor.

To actually answer your question, yes, it’s higher amperage and higher voltage. Every circuit breaker is really just a “tap” into the panel in order to create a parallel circuit at the applied voltage (usually 120V) and whatever amperage the breaker is rated for (after ensuring that you’re using the correct size of breaker, of course).

The main reason why amperage is really important for larger appliances is because the cable used to plug them in (whether that’s by literally plugging it in or by hardwiring it into the panel) needs to be thick enough not to overheat from regular use. When precautions aren’t taken, it’s pretty easy for the cable jacket to melt (happens around 90 degrees C) and for the bare wires to eventually short and/or start a fire.

Obviously, a 18A breaker would prevent this, but it would also prevent you from using the oven.

A gas (or wood) stove will, which is why they’re still common in rural areas that face power outages more frequently. Your comment is the first mention of furnaces.

Personally, I use more than 2 burners pretty often. Honestly, it’s a bit of a waste of everyone’s time to debate whether or not a camping stove is a universal replacement for a gas stove since everyone has different needs. For the scenario I described, a gas stove is the better option.

I would be pretty pissed if I had to use a camping stove instead of a gas stove during an outage just because. They’re totally different tools suited for different use cases and environments.

…You do know that an oven needs a dedicated outlet, yes? As in, if you don’t have a 30-50A receptacle in your home, one must be installed in order for you to have an oven. All new builds and most existing buildings have this dedicated outlet.

Edit: I see that you’re using stove and oven separately. I am talking about a range (oven and stovetop combined), since where I live these are most common and “oven” and “stovetop” are roughly interchangeable. Apologies for any confusion.

Should be a lot more than 18A. Should be closer to 30A-50A to account for usage. 18A is what a kitchen receptacle would require and is so low that an oven on a 18A breaker would trip constantly. I’m Canadian so I mostly know the CEC but the NEC requirements in the USA are very similar.

More info if you’re interested.

I’m confused as to why you’re so confident. The US has 3-phase power and homes get 120V from line 1 to the neutral (split-phase). If you use line 1 and 2, you get 240V. More than enough to power an oven. This is the case in every modern residential home in the US because they have a national building code.

While you’re correct in general, in places where the power is out for a week, a camping/backpacking stove would be ill-suited to the task of keeping multiple people warm and fed. Especially in a house and not an apartment.

Did you know that the vast majority of electric stovetops aren’t induction stovetops and you can use any pan you like on them? Personally, I would rather not breathe in carbon monoxide.